An atmospheric river aimed for Northern California is forecast to bring monster swell to San Francisco Bay Area beaches late Sunday into early Tuesday, prompting the National Weather Service to issue the familiar warning, "Never turn your back on the ocean."
Monster waves up to 30 feet to pound SF Bay Area beaches2/2 SLIDES © Jeff Chiu/Associated Press
Monster waves up to 30 feet to pound SF Bay Area beaches2/2 SLIDES
Large breaking waves up to 30 feet are in the forecast for west- to northwest-facing beaches from Sonoma County to Monterey County, including SF's Ocean Beach, Montara State Beach and Marina State Beach.
The weather service has a high-surf warning in effect from 11 p.m. Sunday through 11 a.m. Tuesday. The biggest waves are expected Monday.
Beaches will be especially dangerous as the big waves arrive, as many beaches are still transitioning from their summer
beach profiles, lacking the features and steepness to resist larger wave run-ups on the coasts, the weather service said.
"This means that more of this wave energy will have a chance to move onto the beach and overtake individuals, potentially injuring them, or pulling them into the cold ocean," the weather service explained.
The public is advised to stay off coastal jetties, and keep an eye on kids and pets at beaches.
"Large waves can wash people off jetties and rocks into frigid ocean waters," the weather service said. "Be very cautious along the coast and on the beaches."
There will also be an increased risk of strong longshore and rip currents, coastal erosion and minor coastal flooding.
Source : https://www.msn.com/en-us/weather/topstories/monster-waves-up-to-30-feet-to-pound-sf-bay-area-beaches/ar-AAPSFw6642